Joya del Pacifico

A sprawling green space offers poolside getaways along an exclusive strip of sand on El Salvador's Costa del Sol.

THE POOL is the focal point of the property, and centerpiece of outdoor life when the beach club, which caters to both members and travelers, is in full swing. The long curved swimming spot is anchored on one end by a spurting fountain in kid-friendly waters, and traversed by a wooden bridge at its center. An adult section has a swim-up bar, which is shaded by the palm fringes of an adjoined palapa. The large circular construction of rough-hewn logs has a soaring thatched roof over open beams and offers shaded refreshment at a dozen hard wood tables set on a natural stone floor. A poolside brick patio sits in the shade of a half dozen palm trees.

THE GROUNDS are rich with tall palms, lush plants, cacti and stretches of green grass. Guests are apt to get greeted by geese that have free range of the outer expanses, and are given to greet the morning sun with temperate calls that mix with the songs of birds and a host of other little creatures that flock to the verdant oasis. Paths of stone pavers that wind through the grounds are lined by tall lampposts which illuminate the way at night. Bungalows lie to one side of the pool area, with a dozen small palapas where hammocks are given to hang on the opposite end. Two large palapas with seating under high thatched roofs command each end of the beachfront, centered by a wide patio that sees small gatherings in the evenings to take in fiery sunsets.

THE BEACHFRONT is lined by wooden loungers that lie under thatched umbrellas and face a rumbling ocean, where early morning fishermen cast nets, and the occasional caravan of cows is given to pass. Guests are likely to have the secluded volcanic sands all to themselves during the week, with more lively activity like beach volleyball to be found when the weekend getaway gang pays a visit. While the ocean temperature is always as inviting as a warm bath, a strong current means that dips are best kept waist deep, with a lifeguard on duty atop a tall stand to ensure that no one gets swept away. There's also some serious kite-surfing to be had for the more adventurous of ocean lovers.

THE MENU abounds with bounty from the sea, with fish-soup starters, a half dozen selections of ceviches and entrees like shrimp with garlic sauce, calamari with rice, and a fish filet that comes smothered in shrimp sauce. Chicken dishes, steaks and a few fettuccine choices round out the dinner menu, along with burgers, chicken sandwiches and personal pizzas. Breakfast offerings include tacos with eggs, beans and sour cream, and Salvadoran-style offerings that come with generous sides of fried plantains. You won't be disappointed in the tree-to-table coconut water.

ACCOMMODATIONS are kept simple and meticulously clean. Spanish-style cottages that are topped by red tile roofs have basic furniture and built-ins of heavy, dark wood over tile floors, with small TVs and coffee makers among the somewhat Spartan amenities. Bathrooms have fresh water. Remote-controlled air conditioners are modern, quiet and powerful.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

La Hola Beto's

Enjoy a massive menu of seafood with your toes in the sand along El Salvador's Costa del Sol.

The well-known family of restaurants that boasts multiple eateries around El Salvador offers a variety of seating areas that range from beach-bum bites to fine dining at it's location along the popular seaside getaway of Costa del Sol. Service in the sand can be had at tables right on the beach, backed by a beach bar that sits under a roof of palm fronds, as light chill-out music floats over the entire scene. About two dozen wooden tables lie on the beach under Island-style wooden structures that support bright-cloth covers to shield the sun. An eating area of equal size sits on an adjoining patio, with even more beachfront seating found at large semi-circle cushioned loungers under wide thatched umbrellas. The beachfront dining spaces give way to a small wading pool and garden area that's flanked by an open-air structure of Roman-style cement columns housing over a dozen wooden tables with rustic tree-section tops.

The ridiculously large menu features seafood selections in almost any combination one can imagine. Ceviche is a specialty, with shrimp ceviche accented by red onions, lemon with ginger, spices, grated coconut and pineapple jelly, served with sides of elote desgranado, corn in a mix of cream, cheese, powdered chile and lemon. Cooked seafood platters combine fresh catches in a dizzying number of mixes, with both single servings and massive sharing plates of lobster, oysters, calamari and filets, along with shrimp dishes that are enhanced by accents like wasabi, chipolte salsa, avocado, cilantro and black olives.

Sushi that's served with sake and Tsing Tao beer is accented by traditional flavors from the East like ginger, Japanese vinegar and teriyaki. Over a dozen varieties of sushi rolls include cucumber-filled kappa-maki, classic California rolls, tuna and sesame rolls, with eel, salmon and crab tucked into seaweed wraps. Sashimi dishes with thin slices of raw fish like salmon are served in lemon juice, accented by peppers, red onions, leeks and olive oil.

Italian-stlye fare is represented by over a dozen different pizzas with traditional toppings like mushrooms, ham and salami, as well as lobster, shrimp and crab. Pasta dishes like spaghetti, ravioli and lasagna also draw from the bounty of the sea with accompaniments of lobster, shrimp, oysters and clams.

Drinks on the menu include beers like the local favorites Pilsener and Golden, along with the imports Grolsh, Heinelen and Bitburger, with a beverage menu that also favors beach refreshers like frozen drinks, daiquiris and pina coladas. Decadent desserts include vanilla sorbet, caramel flan and cherry flambe.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

Tortuga Village

Bali-inspired luxury is found in chic pagodas on a secluded beach in El Salvador.

One would not expect to encounter such a serene South Pacific-style setting just off a two-lane road where livestock share space with whizzing cars along El Salavdor's Costa del Sol. A cobblestone lane that bisects the property, passing a small field where horses loll in the shade of wide trees, leads to the eight teak-wood pagodas with thatched roofs that stand atop rough-hewn logs.

PAGODAS have open living areas underneath, with hammocks, suspended wicker chairs, lights, electric outlets and seating where guests are given take meals. Walled sections of thin bamboo create semi-private spaces under the deceptively well-appointed accommodations above. Inside, towering ceilings with curved-wood beans are topped by fans that preside over all-teak motifs, offset by modern-white furniture like shelving, side tables, stylish lamps, as well as crisp-white linens. Walls that bisect the rounded rooms form open-air bathrooms, where sleek modern sinks and large soaking tubs contrast the natural-wood world. Showers are piping hot in a place where accommodations with hot water aren't entirely common.

THE POOL is the centerpiece of the tiny village, a fresh-water swimming spot that lies just steps from each of the pagodas along white-sand paths. Tile-rimmed islands that each host a coconut palm tree dot the interior of beachfront pool, which boasts a large waterfall at one end, a mini waterfall to one side, a shallow end suitable for children, and five built-in stone loungers that are perfect for adult relaxation in the cool waters.

THE BEACH that's just past a verdant lawn is lined by huts that offer surfboard rentals, recreating space with hammocks and large wooden tables, and a massage hut that's outfitted with two tables and other amenities for spa treatments. The beachfront also has a line of day beds, clusters of tables and chairs under straw umbrellas and thatched-roof ranchitos that are available for daily rental.

THE GROUNDS are rich with garden spaces, with a winding tile path that's shaded by a trellised tunnel of greenery supported by wooded stakes leading to a large main hacienda-style house that has a wide covered porch, with meeting and banquet space inside.

FOOD is provided by the adjoining restaurant, La Hola Betos, which has a number of locations throughout El Salvador. A beach bar under a thatched a-frame roof serves a large section of tables and chairs that bask under bamboo structures with cloth sun covers. An eating area of equal size sits atop a patio that adjoins more beachfront seating, with large semi-circle cushioned wicker loungers under wide thatched umbrellas, and a small wading pool in the restaurant area.

The eco-friendly resort is involved in conservation efforts, with a sea-turtle pen on the beach that aids in efforts to release endangered turtles to the ocean.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

Sheraton Presidente

Elegance with shades of faded glory is found in the heart of one of San Salvador's liveliest hotspots.

The curved facade of the grand hotel, fronted by flags from around the world, takes one back to its inception in the late 70s, before its modern style became retro-chic and hotels needed more stories to proclaim prominence. Guests are greeted by a much more contemporary vibe upon entering the lobby, a sleek mix of marble with accents of gleaming metal and artwork on display that belies the property's true age. The clientele is a mix of well-heeled businesses travelers and high-end tourists, with a brass plaque heralding prominent past guests like Presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama. The front desk is thankfully manned by a multilingual staff.

FOODIES will be happy to find that the restaurants have also been brought into modern times, with formal dining, casual eating areas and poolside noshing. International cuisine, including local specialties, is found at the restaurant La Terraza, which offers views of the hotel's expansive pool. A breakfast area puts on an impressive buffet, with dishes that span the globe from North America to Europe, along with Salvadoran staples like pupusas. Middle Eastern-style dishes are found at the Sheraton's Hookah Restaurant Bar, where traditional hookah pipes are on hand for guests to try, while more casual fare like sandwiches are encountered at the Bistro San Benito. Cocktails are served with cozy ambiance in the hotel's exclusive Marquis Bar. Sheraton Presidente, San Salvador Sheraton, San Salvador hotel

ROOMS also pay homage to days gone by, with balconies that one isn't likely to find in more modern constructs. Rooms offer either impressive views of the capital city and its mountainous backdrop, or vistas of the greenery shrouded grounds surrounding the pool behind the main building. The 225 large rooms that occupy four floors feature big comfortable beds and bedding that one would expect to find in five-star accommodations, similarly appointed with flatscreen TVs, wi-fi and high-speed Internet, as well as in-room coffee makers, all available in standard rooms and junior suites. Poolside cabana-style rooms that are perfectly tailored for short-term business trips have kitchenettes and are fronted by wide glass doors.

THE GROUNDS boast a big pool that's arguably the best swimming spot in the city, complete with a towering waterfall and shallow end for children. A garden area has a small putting green, while just off the pool a 24-hour fitness center is outfitted with free weights and weight machines, along with universal and cardio equipment. Massages and a menu of beauty treatments are found at the the Sheraton’s well-appointed spa.

NEARBY lies the nightlife of la Zona Rosa, home to some of the city's best restaurants, bars and shops and a center of social action for visitors and locals alike. Culture is also found just steps from the hotel, which shares its street with the internationally known Museo de Arte de El Salvador. The David Guzman Anthropology Museum, Estadio Cuscatlan and Feria Internacional de El Salvador are also in close proximity, as are the shops and restaurant of the always-buzzing Multiplaza.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

El Tejado

A hotel and restaurant with picture-perfect views in El Salvador's colonial enclave of Suchitoto.

The bright-yellow colonial construct sits near the bottom of a narrow, sloping cobblestone road, a short distance from the center of the quaint tourist town and its historic church. Livestock are given to graze in the street just outside the massive wooden doors that lead into the farm-style retreat.

THE VIEW is the selling point, with Tejado boasting one of the best vistas of Lake Suchitlan in the area. The hotel is set on a steep bluff that gives way to a lush ravine and overlooks the placid lake and its mountain backdrop, bounded by a slate patio with a Romanesque railing that offers a panoramic view. Wrought-iron cafe-style seating lies under shade trees on the wide terrace at the property's edge.

THE POOL runs a close second as Tejado's big draw. One of the biggest spots to take a dip in town, the pool has the same amazing view of the distant lake and the valley below, fronted by a tall stone waterfall, with a separate section for children to wade.

THE GROUNDS are verdant, meticulously landscaped, and adorned by antique farming equipment -- like weathered wooden wagon wheels, an ox cart and large, carved-wood vessels used by indigenous people to crush grains. The lush greenery is contrasted by brick and stucco walls in the artfully crumbled style that's found throughout the tiny town that saw the arrival of the Spaniards in the 1500s. All across the property, paths of paving stones wind through wide, tree-shaded gardens.

THE RESTAURANT sits poolside, large open structures with Spanish-tile roofs over open-beam wood ceilings and red-tile floors that house long wooden tables. The menu specializes in grilled meat and seafood selections, as well as traditional fare like horchata and pupusas. Light music floats across the eating area, with a singer on weekends who croons easy listening favorites and Rat Pack standards. Breakfast is included in the cost of accommodations.

ROOMS that are moderately priced sit along hacienda-style patios, with high ceilings and decors of bright, primary colors in true Salvadoran style. Some of the accommodations offer impressive views of the lake. All rooms have air conditioning, cable TV, hot showers, and generous bottles of water that are replenished daily.

ARTWORK by local artisans, like colorful pottery, hand-crafted figurines and jewelry in the style of the indigenous Pipi people, are on display throughout the property, with a selections of the pieces available for sale.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

El Jardin de Celeste

A coffee plantation turned mountain getaway takes guests on a trip back in time along La Ruta de las Flores in El Salvador.

CABINS at the hotel offer secluded stays on the slopes of hills rich with lush trees, coffee bushes and flowering plants that form a dense apron of greenery, criss-crossed by winding stone paths. Cabin porches with Spanish-tile roofs are bounded by low stone walls under open-beam ceilings, with impressive views of distant hillsides that are flush with coffee plants. The outside areas of the cabins host hammocks, as well as furniture like artfully weathered wooden tables for dining and antique rockers. Inside, tall a-framed ceilings of lacquered wooden planks preside over tile floors, accented by throwback furniture with heavy wooden shutters over the windows. Fragrance is provided by a candle-wax warmers, as well as traditional candles with aroma-producing coffee beans in their holders.

THE GROUNDS are dotted by water-filled stone vessels whose surfaces are decorated with flower petals to form artistic designs. A sizable white church is tucked in the rear of the property. A mini-menagerie has pens that house geese and a duck that flap in a stone water trough, a small white horse, and male and female “geeps,” a rare cross breed of a goat and a sheep. The hotel's main building is fronted by large wooden dug-out canoes that hold flowers and plants, flanked by remnants from the coffee-production days, like wooden wagon wheels, moss-covered stone grinding vessels that serve as planters and canvas coffee bags suspended from antique hooks. The one-story Spanish tile-roof structure has greenery creeping across its exterior and belies the large open area that lies just beyond the entrance.

THE RESTAURANT is one of the most popular eateries on Las Ruta de las Flores. Wooden double doors lead to a sprawling and comfortably cluttered space that's filled with antiques and plantation memorabilia, like a stack of vintage luggage, antique clocks and period photographs. Local handicrafts and jewelry are available for sale at the reception desk. Rustic-chic dining areas, which are generally filled with locals for breakfast and lunch, wrap around a large a flower-filled garden at the restaurant's center. The menu focuses on Salvadoran dishes, like tipico breakfasts with local cheese, fried plantains and refried black beans, pancakes with dulce de leche, as well as lunch and dinner selections like tortilla soup with fresh tomato and avocado, and steaks with sauce made from locally sourced Tenquique mushrooms.

LAS FLORES DE ELOISA is a small sister hotel that's just down the road. A handful of log cabins with simple rustic furnishings are tucked into lush gardens that are adorned with period pieces like wooden wagon wheels from coffee plantation days gone by. A small cafe is the centerpiece of the property, serving gourmet-style fare at an open dining area that's fashioned from rough-hewn logs, with antiques abound and works of primary colors by local artisans decorating the walls.

NEARBY lie the towns of Ataco in one direction and Apaneca in the other. Ataco is the more vibrant of the two colonial villages, with a large number of restaurants that range from bare-bones bites to gourmet grub, serving cuisine that includes Japanese, French, Italian, and Chilean – along with a number of eateries serving Salvadoran dishes. Cobblestone streets are lined with brightly painted homes and colorful murals in the town that boasts a open-air market and a thriving arts-and-crafts scene. Many establishments are closed during the week, but boom when the weekend crowds swarm the tiny town. Apaneca has a similar vibe, with colorful buildings, cobblestone streets and a large church that attracts a good number of tourists.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com

Los Almendros de San Lorenzo

An eclectic mix of Salvadorean and French cultures is an unlikely find in the quaint town of Suchitoto, El Salvador.

Set on a narrow cobblestone street and fronted by a classic colonial facade, the restored 200-year-old hacienda offers a level of luxury one might not expect to encounter in the tiny tourist stop that's a bit ragged around its edges. The boutique hotel is the meticulously-cared-for baby of co-owners Joaquin, a Salvadorean native, and Pascal, a French ex-fashionista. The two have well-honed hosting skills and understand ambiance, which seems to be lost on even some of the town's better properties. All guests are equal to the hotel's namesake Boston Terrier Lorenzo, who is featured in a few paintings on the grounds and given to offer his hind quarters to get some scratching on his sweet spots.

Lush greenery abounds inside, with stone walls throughout that are maintained in a carefully crumbled style reflecting the colonial decay that's spread across the city. Two spacious open areas are the hotel's focal points and guest-gathering centers, with a garden courtyard that's centered by a gurgling fountain and flanked by loads of original art. The collection of works is largely religious in nature, but eschews the formal style found in typically rigid devotional art for more modern vibe. A glass-walled French restaurant looks onto a stone figure-eight pool in the second communal space, with tranquil music floating through both areas that are filled with memorabilia and antiques collected from across the globe.

Rooms maintain a mix of modern and antique, with furnishings like gently worn wicker chairs and creatively weathered doors that serve as side tables, placed against contemporary window coverings, gleaming fixtures and updated amenities like glass-wall showers. The rustic-chic motif carries throuhout the hotel, which is impressive enough to serve as a stop on a guided tour that winds through town. Poolside suites include a two-story apartment with a large patio that has a not-to-be-missed view of Suchitlan Lake, a big jetted tub and a fountain.

The hotel has spread to space across the street, with an art gallery that bears Pascal's name featuring the creations of local artists, connected to the lounge El Chucho Aquacatero. Named after a term for street dogs, the watering hole oozes chill-out ambiance that one is more likely to find in the cozy haunts of New York or Paris. The main bar has sleek black furnishings set against deep-purple walls, and natural-cloth tapestries slung from bamboo poles fixed to high ceilings. An arched doorway leads to a outside area that's carefully cluttered with art and awash in mood lighting, with clusters of seating areas that range from fine furnishings to junkyard revamps.

Originally posted on vagabuzz.com